Allen Meadows - Score: 91-93 (2018 January)

Here there is no reductive funk which allows the spicy, earth and sauvage-inflected aromas of plum and dark berries to be appreciated. There is excellent volume to the velvety, sappy and seductive flavors that firm up fast on the powerful and youthfully austere finish that is shaped by a prominent tannic spine. This is going to require at least moderate patience.